Uninvited Guest

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Anthony Bourdain had one episode on each of his shows where he visited Las Vegas. One was in 2005 on No Reservations, and the other was in 2014 on Parts Unknown. As a fan of Bourdain and his brash yet endearing writing style, and as a Las Vegas native myself, I was curious to see what the chef had to say about my city. In the No Reservations episode, much like I assumed he would, Bourdain proceeded to eviscerate the city of Las Vegas for 60 minutes, claiming how commercialized everything had become and what little culture the city did have in the 50’s and 60’s had now evaporated. Trading the escort cards you would get handed while walking on the strip for Mickey Mouse ears for the whole family. That was in 2005, and his take still stands the test of time, if not getting worse now. He notes the “ooh and ahh”-ness of the former city of sin and regales of a better Vegas, filled with the likes of Sinatra & the Rat Pack with its mob ties. Even in 2014 on his second visit for Parts Unknown, his tune did not change much, relishing the old days but coming to terms with the rise of the nightclubs, DJ’s, and commenting on the little good that the city is holding onto. I think the biggest travesty that my city committed in Bourdain’s eyes was the New York New York resort. “I think my sense of unhappiness at this moment is informed by a deeper terror. The fear, that in some ways, Las Vegas isn’t looking more like New York. In fact, my beloved city, with each passing year, is beginning to look more like Vegas.” As I recently took my first trip to the Big Apple, Bourdain’s quote crawled around my head, as my expectations for my possible future home were rapidly dashed and brought new discoveries and thoughts. So after spending a week in NYC, here is what I think about it.

All of the dogs in New York City are skinny. It’s an odd thing to notice, but it was one of the first things I did, and it perfectly describes what kind of city New York is. Constantly moving but at a pace more than what I’m accustomed to. I currently live in my hometown of Las Vegas (while I write this in Oberlin, OH) and have been itching to leave. I do agree with the chef. The little culture that Vegas did have as a city has been gone for a very long time. Despite the Aces, Raiders, and Golden Knights’ best efforts to turn Vegas into more than a tourist attraction, I’m afraid that’s all we will be. A city in the desert that you pass through, inviting the likely vagabonds and drifters with welcome arms. Besides any sentimental value the city has over me, I have been done with Vegas for quite some time now. Not to say I do not like Vegas, I do, but she is like a high school ex. You only call them when you’re back for the holidays after you’ve knocked back a few gin & tonic’s or your vice of choice (or just get down bad enough) and when you do see them, you notice how much different they are. And how little you have in common. And more importantly, how different you are as well. So I’ve been wanting to leave, and in my head, New York was the place that I wanted to go. I hate LA and love the south, but in my naive CTE rotted brain, real writers live in New York, so that’s where I needed to be. Riding a crowded train home from work, heading to a bar for some drinks, going to a rave and taking something from a stranger that makes you start sweating profusely, dance the night away, and ride a citi bike home with some half-eaten halal in the front basket at 4 a.m. and do some writing whenever you wake up. That was life for me, well, at least I think that’s what I want for me. I’m mostly joking, but New York was the place in my head that I thought I belonged. I would go and finally say, “Wow, this is what I was missing.” But before I made an impromptu life choice, I figured I should probably check the place out and see what it’s talking about.

I stayed in Queens, specifically in Ridgewood, and when I landed, the pouring rain had stopped, the skies parted, and the sticky air and fireworks were all that was left. The streets were filled with folks grilling and cooking on the side of the street with their cars speakers blasting Daddy Yankee or Banda.  The place was lively and felt a bit overwhelming, a feeling that would not escape me much while on this trip. Besides my initial first day, which was the fourth of July, the neighborhood was surprisingly quiet. After the 4th, it seemed like much of the color that was in the neighborhood had vanished, leaving only hipster white kids in its place. Walking around already felt different. Most of the area had more of a residential feel than any of the other boroughs I visited. Scattered with local parks filled with people and kids of all ages.  The furthest you could get from the city while still being in the mix. The only distinct thing to note was the lovely mixture of the humid summer air and wet garbage creating a memorable aroma, to say the least. There was trash everywhere, but this is a NYC issue more than it being exclusively in Queens. I didn’t eat much here besides a beef patty and bacon, egg, and cheese I had from a corner store, but this is when I also noticed a glaring problem about New York that I’ll talk about later on.

One quick walk to the subway platform, and I was on my first train in the city headed for Manhattan. Overall, I think the MTA was my favorite part about New York. The subway system in NY is one of the oldest public transit systems that millions of New Yorkers depend on every day for their transportation. Its history is evident at each station, having its own character, from beautiful landscapes, like the stop in Flatbush near Prospect Park or the beautiful mosaics that can be seen on the walls as you come to a screeching halt for your stop. My personal favorite subway art had to be in Harlem titled, “Flying Home Harlem Heroes and Heroines” by Faith Ringgold. It’s a constant reminder of how big yet so small the city truly is, and its people from all different creeds and corners having pride in their communities. This does not mean the subway system is perfect. Besides the occasional rat or random crazy person cutting up, the MTA is mostly okay. As I mentioned earlier, millions of New Yorkers depend on that transit system, despite some trains being behind schedule or just not showing up at all. Even with your phone navigating, all it takes is one train coming late or maintenance happening on the tracks for you to lose your sense of direction. Luckily, I’m proud to say I only got on the wrong train once and missed my stop one time as well. I don’t think I could ever get used to bouncing up the subway steps and looking up to be in a whole different part of the city. Besides being a bit disorienting, there is a beauty to it that I appreciate, where you never feel like you’re too far from anything. My first stop was in Soho, as I tried my hardest to keep myself from breaking my neck at the daunting skyscrapers and out myself as a tourist.

Striding through dense crowds and brushing shoulders with strangers on main streets in the summer city heat, I was greeted with typical storefronts in atypical buildings. From your favorite streetwear brands to chic fashion boutiques, Soho has it all. My favorite store we visited was Aimé Leon Dore, a streetwear brand that has evolved into an elevated fashion and lifestyle brand, bringing the luxury and ivy looks that clash with its inspirations from the culture, music, & sports. When you walk into the store, the lights are turned down low while you are greeted with a custom vintage Porsche 365 parked on a Persian rug with 80’s basketball highlights playing on the displays behind it. Looking at Pat Riley with his arms folded on the screen, the rich wood grain across the walls, and deep couches in the store with hushed and smooth breakbeats playing throughout the store, you would feel more appropriate ordering an old fashioned neat with a Cuban to go along with it instead of buying a wool waffle knit sweater. This is just one example of the kinds of shops here, having an attention to detail that is hard to see anywhere else.  

From all of the walking, shopping, and sightseeing, one begins to work up an appetite. I don’t think it’s a surprising statement to say that New York has some of the best dining experiences you can find in the world. I want to preface these next couple of paragraphs by stating I am not a foodie. I have the palate of a 10th grader. I think every Starburst or Gatorade flavor tastes the same, but I am trying to learn to appreciate food instead of treating it like fuel, which I have done for the past however many years. I went to a couple of different places, but I want to talk about three restaurants that left an impression on me while on this trip. Before that, an honorable nod would be Buddakan, on 9th avenue. Good food, great atmosphere, and even better bathroom lighting. It genuinely blew me away, but the other restaurants I visited had a different effect on me.

Besides being name-dropped by Drake in his verses or frequently visited by the Kardashians, my knowledge of Carbone is limited to say the least, so with that comes zero expectations. Located in Greenwich (with other locations in Miami and Las Vegas), the Italian eatery opened up in 2013 and has become known as one of New York’s best restaurants. Besides great food, there is an insane amount of attention to detail that can be observed and is appreciated. I ordered the tortellini al ragu along with Mario’s meatballs and was truly impressed with the quality of the food and had zero complaints. You could taste just how fresh the tortellini was biting into the soft pasta to reveal a decadent filling that left you speechless after each bite. The meatballs were great as well, with spicy italian flavoring for an authentic taste. Was it the best Italian food I’ve ever had? Not to my knowledge, no. But I can say, believe the hype. I can only imagine the quality would be the same at its other locations, but if you are taking a trip to NY, I’d say add this one to your list if you can get a reservation. Will I go again? Probably not. But that statement says more about me than it does about the restaurant.

Sofreh is my favorite restaurant I visited while in NY. Opened in 2018 by Nasim Alikhani, Sofreh is serving authentic Persian food with a modern backdrop that highlights and celebrates the Middle Eastern cuisine, introducing itself to Americans and Brooklynites without compromising any of their dishes. Taken directly from their website, “Traditionally, the Sofreh is a term for an iconic Persian fabric that served as the backdrop for seasonal feasts and celebrations. Over time, the term itself has taken on a larger cultural significance: it refers to a gathering, a sharing, a place for family and friends to come together.” This sense of community is palpable and can be felt from the moment you walk in and especially when you are gathered around a table sharing a beautiful meal with friends. I ordered the lamb shank and was hushed to silence from the meat falling from the bone to the hints of saffron and tart notes from the lime broth. Besides appreciating a great meal, the more important part is that I got to share it with my friends and embrace what Sofreh embodies.

The final stop on the eating endeavors of this trip felt the most familiar to me. Found on the historic Malcolm X Blvd in Harlem, Sylvia’s is nothing to play with. Since opening up in 1962, Sylvia’s has been serving soul food to the community and giving black home cooking to all that walk through its doors with open arms. The ambiance and food took me back to the north side of Vegas, seeing the men’s freshly pressed suits and the women’s large crowns, all dressed in their Sunday best. The live gospel singing while you eat all the greens and mac n cheese without looking up from your plate. The only thing I was missing was the good word, which I probably need now. To say that Sylvia’s was good would be putting it lightly. My plate consisted of the barbecue salmon because I was trying to avoid the dreaded Itis that comes with fried chicken and soul food. Unfortunately my efforts were unsuccessful because they found a way to nigga-fy salmon while being delicious, with a slice of sweet potato pie to finish it off. Slyvia’s has all of your favorite comfort foods that are given to you just like you’re at your granny, aunt, uncle, or whoever’s house (but don’t tell them that Sylvia’s might be better). So if you’re in the neighborhood, it’s worth a stop, but you might have a long wait like I did.

You would be remiss to visit NYC and not mention what the nightlife is like. I have my own personal philosophy on going out and that is, everything is the same. It doesn’t matter where you are, the only factors are the venue, the crowd, and the music. New York is no exception to my way of thinking but that doesn’t mean that it didn’t leave an impression on me. No matter where the day took us and placed us for the night, it never seemed like you were far away from getting into something. There is always music you can hear from around the corner, or crowds of people walking somewhere. Weekdays are no exception either, with streets still packed late at night, but I also am aware that it is summertime, so people are a bit more restless. Despite that, I can only say that my friends and I only visited one bar, and it was the rooftop bar in the hotel they were staying at. Look, maybe I’m getting old and have a bum ankle but I was wiped from all the daytime activities so when the night came, I packed it in. I wish I did go out more but that is for another trip. Fortunately it wasn’t all boring because I went to my first rave.

Now a rave is a bit misleading, I will admit, but I did go to a musical event where there were DJ’s playing edm and people wearing fishnets and chaps. Was it a rave? Eh maybe, but I think if you asked anyone else who attended the Anjunadeep open air event in Brooklyn, they would give you a different answer. Before going, I had never heard of Anjunadeep, but after some extensive research and an Apple music essentials playlist, I was a stan for the London based record label. With a diverse group of artists in their lineup, Anjunadeep has come a long way from their more traditional house and edm sound of the label’s creators Above and Beyond in their early days, to more hushed, melodic, and ambient tracks that slow down the BPM as the night crawls along. This mix of a less traditional edm brings with it a less traditional type of crowd. Your average rave babe or bro was present, but there were also finance guys sweating in their Patagonia vests yelling in a girls ear about mergers and acquisitions, 40 something year olds reliving their youth while they have a babysitter for the night, and everything in between. The venue itself, the Brooklyn Mirage, was a massive indoor and outdoor space, with a main stage in the open air, an alternate stage inside in a tightly packed room with a massive disco ball, and an additional indoor zen garden for when you needed a timeout from the vibes. Overall the experience was one unlike any other concert I’ve been to. It had its moments, but it wasn’t just loud thumping kicks and fist pumping edm. The varied lineup of DJs and producers created a unique type of musical event that has a bit of something for everyone within the dance music space. Since the concert,  I’ve been listening to the label’s mixes starting with Anjunadeep 14 and working my way back. It was easily the highlight of my trip to New York and made a fan out of me, but it wasn’t my favorite place I visited.

While waiting for our table at Sylvia’s that Sunday morning, we walked around Harlem, and I can say without a doubt that it was my favorite place that I visited on the entire trip. Bursting with history and culture, Harlem was captivating from the moment we got to Malcom X Blvd. If I ever did move to New York, Harlem would be on the top of the list of neighborhoods I want to live in, but that doesn’t mean it is without its faults. Much of the things wrong with Harlem are not exclusive to the borough but can be seen all throughout the city. The glaring problem that I mentioned earlier, that becomes noticed very quickly while in the city, is that despite its lack of cacti and dry barren landscape, New York is a desert. A food desert. When I tell you there are no grocery stores in New York, I am not exaggerating. Okay, maybe that is a bit of a hyperbole, but there is truth to it. From an observational standpoint, you notice quickly that there aren’t many grocery stores around, but there is a deli or bodega on every corner. And the grocery stores you do find are relatively small and have little selection or alternate/ healthy options. Aside from the big-box stores like Whole Foods, Trader Joes, and others, which also suffer from these problems too and are only located in the more affluent parts of the city, most people have to rely on their local grocery store to feed an entire overpopulated community. Without getting into it too much, because it is a topic that can be its own article entirely, New York’s problems from food to housing, garbage, etc. , come from a multitude of factors, but most of them are from the city’s inability to keep up with this changing world. But there are a few people that are trying to change that.

While walking in the middle of Harlem, one wouldn’t expect to find chickens, but that is exactly what we found when we stumbled across one of the gardens created by Harlem Grown. When we walked past, a man watering the produce greeted us to come inside and take a look around the garden. This man was Tony Hillery, the CEO, and founder of Harlem Grown. He told us about his mission, while also showing us around the garden. Hillery founded the non-profit in 2011 after volunteering at local elementary schools and noticing the lack of resources the schools had and poor conditions of these schools as well. Hillery wanted to make a change and knew that one big factor was the poor food conditions that many of these kids are facing, whether it be a lack of food, no nutritious or healthy options, or simply not having the knowledge of how important healthy food is. Today, Harlem Grown has 13 farms located in Harlem and works with many of the elementary schools in the area, focusing on educating the kids about the foods they grow and eat, with gardening and cooking classes as well. All of the produce and food that is grown in its gardens is given away to the community for free. If you found this cause as moving as I did, you can visit their website here and learn more about exactly what it is they do for their community way better than I can articulate it.

Just like Tony, New York is filled with New Yorkers who are passionate and care about their city. Before I came, I thought New York was just filled with young people who think they can dress, talking about what restaurants they have been to and what bar they are going to. It is exactly that, but it’s also so much more. It’s the most populated city in the United States, brimming with culture and history, that refuses to compromise for this new world. That same pride of tradition is also a sign of its age, showing its dated infrastructures and decisions made in the past that today’s New Yorkers have to deal with. A city for no old men, rapidly moving along while forgetting the many that have been in the city their entire lives. Despite change, there is no place like New York. The skinny dogs that are happy from getting to walk until their heart’s content, to the Africans selling Rolexes on Canal Street. Everyone in New York has a story. From riding the bus through the Hasidic neighborhoods in Brooklyn, walking through Spanish Harlem and seeing my Boudica people, or riding the Wonder Wheel at Coney Island wishing I was a warrior, the city always shows out. The tiny island has so much to offer. I know I probably skipped your favorite place or I “Just need to go to this place and it’ll change how you think about the city”, but I can’t do everything. This is just what I thought about what I did see, that’s all.

8.8 million people that are too busy with their own lives to slow down or to tell you how tall you are all the time. Despite its absence of slot machines and craps tables around every corner, New York is becoming more like Vegas, in the same ways that me and Bourdain hate Vegas. Too many damn people, and they both turned into a theme park. But maybe that’s one thing that will never keep me too far from home if I ever decide to become a real writer and make the move. Until then, New York City will continue to be the worst and best place I’ve been lucky enough to visit.